Updated :: Reach and Stack

It's the new way, apparently. Makes sense!

See more here - http://www.sicklines.com/2008/12/18/reach-and-stack-a-good-idea/

Centre of the BB to the top of the head tube - horizontal and vertical = reach and stack.

You need a plumb bob.

Here's what numbers come out, unsagged on a Ragley mmmbop, Ti or Blue Pig.

UPDATED ::(I got a new version of the very ace BIKECAD which gave more accurate dimensions).

16in - 23in top tube, 73deg seat angle.
reach = 390mm, stack = 576mm (140mm fork)
reach = 378mm, stack = 584mm (160mm fork)

18in - 23.5in top tube, 73.5deg seat angle.
reach = 408mm, stack = 576mm (140mm fork)
reach = 396mm, stack = 584mm (160mm fork)

20in - 24in top tube, 74deg seat angle
reach = 424mm, stack = 581mm (140mm fork)
reach = 413mm, stack = 589mm (160mm fork).

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Oct 27, 2009

Chipps said...

It only really makes sense on bikes where you stand up all/most of the time. For jump and DH bikes though, it's great.

Brant said...

I think you're half right. If I'm being nice.

Combined with top tube length, it gives a much better idea of bike fit. People always fluff seat angle, and this gets around the "size a bike by the top tube length" thing. there's a half inch top tube length difference between the frames, but half a degree too - so it adds up more.

Oct 28, 2009

Jason WD said...

Maybe there should be a third 'Sit' measurement?

said...

I cannot WAIT till my mmmBop arrives so I can flog it out...

shedfire’s dumping ground

Updated :: Reach and Stack

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